Tokyo, Japan September 28, 2006

Overview

The Greater Tokyo area is positioned in approximately the center of the Japanese archipelago, a chain of islands that stretch nearly 1,800 miles from the arctic north to the semitropical south. The metropolitan area and is made up of Tokyo City and the three neighboring prefectures of Saitama, Kanagawa, and Chiba. Tokyo is the capital of Japan and , with 12,360,000 million within the city limits and 37,327,000 in its metropolitan area, the world's most populous city.

Some residents say Tokyo is more a collection of villages than a metropolis of 37+ million. It sprawls but each neighborhood "village" has a distinct character. The city, itself, has twenty-three "wards," with Shibuya, located near Tokyo's busiest train station, being one of the most most popular for the shopping and entertainment, especially among the younger generation. The Shinjuku ward is another of the one best areas for shopping and nightlife. The movie, Lost in Translation was filmed in Shinjuku.

  History

Considering its modern-day size, it seems almost inconceivable that sixteenth century Tokyo was just a small fishing village named Edo. Edo was not even the Japanese capital--- that was Kyoto, a city further to the west. But in the sixteen century, Japan was a divided nation, with all the land in the hands of various "daimyo" (feudal Lords) who constantly fought each other trying to win control of the whole country. Finally, when the shoguns were swept away by the Meiji Restoration, the emperor moved his court Kyoto to Edo, which was then renamed Tokyo ("Eastern Capital"). A few decades later, the once-obscure fishing village had grown into one of the world's most populous cities.

In the 1850s, when Japan was eventually opened to foreigners and international trade began to have increased importance to the nation, Emperor Meiji hastened to realign Japan with the rest of the world. He set to work with almost frenzied plans of rapid industrialization. New jobs attracted new people--- population and excitement exploded enormously. But,in 1923, just as Tokyo was gaining a foothold among the world's most important trade centers, disaster struck and the city was flattened by the "big one, " the Great Kanto Earthquake. Most of the city, built of wood, completely destroyed either by the quake or the fires that raged for days.

The spirit of the survivors was strong, however, and rebuilding began almost immediately. Within twenty years, Tokyo was again vibrant and bustling. But, in the early 1940s, more destruction was literally "rained" on the city by World War II American bombers. Many historic buildings were severely damaged, if not completely destroyed. On March 10th 1945, the Asakusa area was wiped out. One month later, the raids between April 13th and 15th put out the Meiji Shrine. The Zojoji Temple was destroyed in May, and on the twenty fifth of that same month, the Imperial Palace was severely damaged.

But as in times before, Tokyo was quick to recover. The cinders of the destroyed city were once again dumped in the canals and black markets sprang up all over the city. The American Occupation began in September 1945.

In places, twenty-first century Tokyo still remains true to the layout of Edo. The original environs of Edo comprised a collection of "one trade" or "one company towns." In Tokyo this can be seen today in areas such as Jimbocho (dominated by the book trade), Akihabara (electronics) and Ochanomizu (music and sports).

Tokyo boasts 30 percent of Japan's university students, and features numerous museums. But business, especially the service industry, dominates Tokyo, with almost 800,000 separate companies hard at work, many in the area around the Imperial Palace. Major industries include finance, electronics, transportation equipment, motor vehicles, cameras, optical goods, furniture, textiles, publishing, and printing.

Culture and Customs

In terms of etiquette and culture, Japan can be a bewildering country for the unprepared. For example, it is socially acceptable to pick your nose in public but, somehow acceptable to blow your nose. Excuse yourself before you blow! There is an often overpowering mix of the ancient and the supermodern--- for example, a kimono-dressed Geisha stopping on the street to make an appointment with her cell phone!

In today's Tokyo, it seems as if you will find is one vending machine (Jidohanbaiki) for every twenty people! You can buy soda, cigarettes, porn, alcohol, toiletries, flowers, live lobsters, toys, and magazines from a machine but, oddly enough, rarely candy. While you can buy everything from beer to whisky from vending machines on just about every street, the legal drinking age in Japan is twenty. Drinking and driving is strictly punished. Visitors often ask how the drinking age can be enforced when alcohol is so readily available from machines. The Japanese simply say that drinking among minors is not a problem "because it is illegal." It seems to work for them!

People in Japan bow--- a lot. It's their version of the handshake, only more complex, and failing to return a bow is considered impolite. Though it feels awkward at first, it quickly becomes second nature. If you offer your hand for a shake, you probably won't be refused, but bowing is the preferred method of greeting. Bows also convey apologies and thanks. Even signs giving instructions feature polite bows--- ATMs, no smoking, etc.

While visitors are not expected to know the complexities of the bow, a few tips will help. First, bow from the waist with the arms straight at your sides. Imitate the bows you receive (there are lots of rules regarding the depth of bows -- social abstractions that take decades to learn). Don't overbow or ignore the greeting. It's better to smile politely and nod your head than to be perceived as rude. (There are "how to bow" signs at shrines indicating the appropriate depth for a correct bow.)

Western-style restrooms are generally found in larger department stores and many restaurants. Most hotels feature Western-style toilets, though some ryokan may not. When encountering a Japanese-style toilet, remember that you squat (or aim) facing the raised hood of the unit (it takes some getting used to, but it is quite sanitary). Always carry tissues or toilet paper with you -- not every restroom stocks these items and, additionally, paper towels are also scarce in restrooms.

Money

The Japanese unit of currency is the yen (¥). Bank notes come in ¥1,000, ¥2,000, ¥5,000 and ¥10,000 denominations and and six kinds of coins (¥500 , ¥100, ¥50, ¥10, ¥5, ¥1 ) are used. Japanese money y is designed to facilitate easy use by people with sight impairments--- all of the bills and coins are different sizes and each bill also has raised bumps in the bottom, left corner. (In September 2006, the exchange rate was approximately ¥115 per $1.)

Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, despite the fact that Japan is generally a cash-based society. ATM machines are also widely available but hard to translate (below). Before leaving home check make sure to tell your credit card companies that you will be traveling--- where, when, and how long. It is embarrassing (and inconvenient) to have your card refused because your bank is trying to protect you from an overseas identify-theft scam.

It is considered to be rude to count the change that has been handed back to you after making a purchase. This is a culture that prides itself on its honesty--- it's better to be trusting (and, are you really in a position to translate the currency quickly enough to make this assessment?).

Tipping is not customary in Japan. Whether in a taxi or restaurant, you pay the price indicated. Note however, that some establishments may add a service charge (10 - 15%) to bills, although this is generally limited to higher priced establishments.

Food

Simply finding food in Tokyo is absolutely no problem--- however, finding something you recognize and feel comfortable about eating may be entirely another matter entirely. The city is teeming with restaurants--- an estimated 60,000--- catering to just about every mood and craving. Most Japanese restaurants cater to a particular taste (udon, sushi, yakitori, or whatever the house specialty might be) but, it's not difficult to find establishments that serve enough of a variety to please the most picky (American?) eater. One of the "neutral" dishes that appeal to many American visitors are noodles, a common delicacy found at sidewalk counters everywhere in Tokyo. Most Americans are also familiar with sushi, elaborately prepared raw fish, and tofu, something like deep-fried batter.

To the surprise of many visitors, dining out in Tokyo doesn’t cost the family fortune. Lunch is the perfect time to try new restaurants, as menu prices are often less than half the nighttime equivalent in the pricey areas. And all over the city lunchtime lines form for boxes filled with a selection of rice, shellfish, and vegetables. Incredibly good value, they offer a traditional Japanese meal at ¥500 or less.

Unlike their American and European counterparts, Japanese restaurants are often housed in anonymous grey buildings, either at the top of a high rise or down in the basement. But don’t be put off, the city has an incredible eye for design and diners often find themselves eating in the most beautiful surroundings. Service is impeccable and every diner is made to feel special.

While dining in Japanese restaurants isn't significantly different than dining in London restaurants, every culture has its quirks, and the savvy traveler observes local customs. For example, chopsticks (waribashi, hashi) are used everywhere. If you've never used chopsticks, it would be a good idea to practice before arriving in Tokyo.

Chopsticks Etiquette Once you learn the basics, chopsticks are easy to use. That's the good news. The bad news is that chopsticks come with their own etiquette. Here are few suggestions to make things easier: * Don't store your chopsticks vertically in your rice bowl (or any other food). This is only done at funerals as part of a ritual. * Don't pass items between people using only chopsticks; and when taking food from a communal dish, turn the chopsticks upside down and use the part that has not been in your mouth to select items. Think of this as not double-dipping. * Don't engage in elaborate and vigorous rubbing chopsticks together. Though it * should go without saying, this implies that the establishment has provided inferior, splinter-ridden chopsticks. If you do encounter splinters, be discrete about rubbing the sticks together to remove them. * Don't cross your chopsticks on your plate. Place them side-by-side at the bottom of your plate. If you remember, try to point the tips to left if you're right-handed; vice versa if you're left-handed. * As general rule of thumb, chopsticks should not be placed directly on the table or counter. * Since soup is generally not served with a spoon, you can use chopsticks to remove solid foods such as tofu or meat. * Waving your chopsticks around is like waving your knife around -- someone is bound to get hurt, and it's generally not good manners. * Chopsticks should not be used to spear food. *If you don't feel comfortable with chopsticks, don't be afraid to ask for Western-style utensils. While they may not be available, asking never hurts.

Weather

Tokyo has four distinct seasons, five if you include the rainy season. Winters tend to be cold, dry, and clear while summers are exhaustingly hot and humid. The rainy season, which falls roughly between mid-June and mid-July, can be sticky and gray. July and August are only for those who can bear soaring temperatures and jungle-like humidity. Spring and autumn are good times to visit. In autumn the days are still mild, the nights cool, and the leaves turn a spectacular array of colors. One of the big draws in spring is hanami, or cherry blossom viewing, in early April. Weather reports announce the approach of the blossom front and when it does finally arrive, parks and shrines across the city are packed with people eating and drinking under every available cherry tree. Weather permitting--- and spring is a time for blustery showers--- the blossoms last for around ten days. ( Click here for 10-day weather forecast in Tokyo.)

Transportation

Tokyo is connected to the rest of the country by modern, highspeed bullet trains. These are the fastest, most powerful and most expensive trains in the world, capable of moving at 200 mph (although they currently operate at a maximum 186 mph). Each train costs an estimated $40 million .

Residents of the Tokyo area use the subway, with far more conventional equipment than the bullet trains. In many ways, the Tokyo subway system has features like that of New York and Washington, DC, complete with overhead lines and rush hour crowding.

It is possible to rent a car and set out on a "do it yourself" tour of Tokyo but it would not be recommended for anyone easily distracted, with a tendency toward nervousness, or lacking in self-confidence. Streets are almost always heavy with traffic and, of course, markings are difficult, if not impossible, to understand, especially at 40-45 MPH!

Far better than driving on your own is taking a taxi, at least according to Internet reports submitted by past tourists. Cabs are plentiful, easy to find (signs everywhere), move expertly and as quickly as possible through the vexing traffic, and are, by Tokyo price standards, a comparatively good value for those not wanting to drive or struggle with the subway system.

When you hail a taxi on the streets of Tokyo, the first surprise is the back door which is controlled from the driver's seat, and swings open magically before you can reach the handle. Other surprises follow--- lace doilies cover the seats and your driver wears a tie and a white shirt, and perhaps white gloves. Remarkably, doilies, shirt, and gloves always-seem to have just arrived from the laundry. How that's accomplished is part of the mystique of the Tokyo cab driver. In a status-conscious society, his status not low. He presents himself to his customers with extreme gravity, much in the manner of a corporate financial officer--- after all, he does important work! And, if "real" taxis are not your cup of tea, you can try one of the new public transportation services--- the velotaxi. (This innovation was started at Berlin in 1997 and was soon after adopted in traffic congested Tokyo.)
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Language

Japanese is a phonetic language, and that makes it easy to learn some basic phrases. English is generally read and spoken by younger Japanese people; however, the differences between Japanese and English sentence structure can make conversation very difficult. There are several different paperback books and electronic translation devices that can be very helpful and these can be found in almost any Tokyo bookstore or computer sales outlet.

Many Japanese people are eager to practice their English on American visitors and many Western words have been "converted" in the Japanese language. Thus, Americans "hear" English in a variety of settings (though these sounds tend to be creative). The good news is that unlike other Asian languages, Japanese is not tonal and the pronunciation system is fairly easy to master. In fact, with a little effort, getting together a repertoire of travelers' phrases should be no trouble---- the only problem will be understanding what people say back. Of course, there are many instances in which a picture or display of and item or service is all that is need, making the actual language supernumerary.

A final suggestion regarding language, set aside several years if you want to learn to read Japanese. This language has one of the most complex writing systems in the world, using three different scripts (four if you include the increasingly used Roman script romaji).

Ginza

Most Americans have heard of Tokyo's Ginza though movies and TV although they might not know too much about it. The Ginza district of Tokyo (literally "Silver Mint"), is considered the fashion area of the city and contains many upscale shops and restaurants. The Ginza is said to be the most expensive real estate in the world--- 10 square feet sells for $128,000 US. (So, your average American condo at 1100 square ft would run about $13 million.)

The heart of Ginza is the glass cylinder of the San-ai Building which occupies what may be the most prized corner of real estate in Asia. The most expensive outdoor ad location in Tokyo (now featuring Vodaphone), it's high profile, towering presence, and glittering neighbors have been the image of Ginza on postcards and travel books for decades. (Ginza real estate runs about The most exclusive and expensive shopping available in Tokyo.

The other corners are occupied by the Wako Clock Building and the Mitsukoshi Department Store, two of the most prestigious department stores, and the Nissan Gallery, which shows off new and classic automobiles. The Sony Building has four floors of the latest Sony products, with a small shop on the 3rd floor. The building also houses a BMW showroom.

The side streets of Ginza are full of specialty shops, automobile dealerships, restaurants and cafes, art galleries, and, of course, thousands of shoppers.

Kabuki Theater

A performance of Kabuki (literally a combination of song, dance, and technique) is said to be one of the most unique experience in the world of theater. Kabuki is the traditional Japanese form of theater with its origins in the Edo period. Kabuki was the popular culture of the townspeople and not of the higher social classes. Kabuki plays are about historical events, moral conflicts in love relationships, and the like. The actors use an old fashioned language which is difficult to understand even for some Japanese people. They speak in a monotonous voice and are accompanied by traditional Japanese instruments.

The kabuki stage (kabuki no butai) is a rotating stage and is further equipped with several gadgets like trapdoors through which the actors can appear and disappear. Another specialty of the kabuki stage is a footbridge (hanamichi) that leads through the audience. In the early years, both, men and women acted in Kabuki plays. Later during the Edo period, however, the shoguns forbade women to take part in the acting, a restriction that survives to the present day. Several male kabuki actors are, therefore, specialized in playing female roles (onnagata).

The best place for tourists to see a kabuki play is in the Kabukiza Theater in the Ginza district in Tokyo, where it is possible to rent English headphones and see just one act of a play instead of sitting through a whole performance which not seldomly lasts more than three hours. Note that during kabuki plays, it is common for fans in the audience to shout the name of their favorite actor just in the right moment during short pauses. (This may not be too appropriate for tourists to try!).

For visitors with limited time, probably the best way to see traditional Japanese theater is to go to the Kabuki-za for a single act (hitomaku-mi), which lasts between one and two hours. This costs around ¥1000, depending on the length, and seating is on the fourth floor. An English audio guide, available for ¥400 or so, describes the play while you watch. You can also see a complete kabuki play, but this is a lengthy affair and ticket prices can range from ¥3500 to ¥20,000.

Imperial Palace

In the center of Tokyo is the Imperial Palace, the residence of Japan's Imperial Family, the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world. Located where the Edo Castle stood during in the 17th-19th centuries, it features a large park area surrounded by moats and massive walls. Although some of the original gates and stone walls still remain, many of the buildings seen today were erected in the wake of the terrible earthquake and fire of 1923 and the devastation rained upon the city in World War II. The Imperial Palace is closed to the public, but the gardens are open to public as parks.

The role of the Emperor or, occasionally, the Empress, has varied in importance over the years. Considered a divine being until the end of World War II, Japan's postwar Constitution made him the "Symbol of the state". He plays a largely ceremonial part in the life of the nation.

Shrines and Temples

Japan has two dominant religious traditions--- Shinto is the ancient, animist religion of traditional Japan and, at just over twelve hundred years in Japan, Buddhism is the more recent imported faith. Christianity, introduced by European missionaries, was once widely persecuted but is now accepted and a small percentage of Japanese are Christian.

Generally speaking, the Japanese are not a particularly religious people. While they regularly visit shrines and temples to offer coins and make silent prayers, religious faith and doctrine play a small role (if any) in the life of the average Japanese. Thus it would be impossible to try to represent what percentage of the population is Shinto versus Buddhist, or even Christian. According to a famous poll, Japan is 80% Shinto and 80% Buddhist, and another oft-quoted dictum states that Japanese are Shinto when they live, as weddings and festivals are typically Shinto, but Buddhist when they die, since funerals usually use Buddhist rites. Most Japanese accept a little bit of every religion. (For clarification, "shrines" are Shinto and "temples" are Buddhist.)

One of the country's most famous religious sites is the Yasukuni Shrine. It is a Shinto shrine located in Tokyo that commemorates Japan's war dead. The shrine was founded in 1869 as Tokyo Shokonsha, and was renamed Yasukuni Shrine in 1879. It was build in order to commemorate and worship those who have died in war for their country and sacrificed their lives to help build the fundament for a peaceful Japan (the meaning of Yasukuni is "peaceful country").

The deities (spirits/souls) of about 2.5 million people who died for Japan in the conflicts accompanying the Meiji Restoration, the Satsuma Rebellion, and similar domestic conflicts, the First Sino-Japanese War, the Russo-Japanese War, the First World War, the Manchurian Incident, the Second Sino-Japanese War and the Pacific War are enshrined at Yasukuni Shrine in form of written records, which note name, origin and date and place of death of everyone enshrined.

Another interesting thing found in Shinto temples is the "wishing prayer wall" where people write prayers and requests on little plaques---- "Can I please find a better girl friend," "Can I please visit the USA soon," etc." While some of the prayers/wishes are really dumb and others really disrespectful (lower right below), serious ones, of course, are more common. The plaques come in many different languages, reflecting the variety of people who pass through. Prayers are also sometimes written on small bits of twisted paper or are represented by brightly colored ribbons.

Tokyo Page for Teachers and Students