Ornate medieval clock on the wall of the Holy Spirit Church, the first Lutheran church in the nation to use Estonian as it day-to-day language.

Tallin, Estonia September 13, 2008

Background

It is supposed that the first settlers of what is today known as Tallinn were the Vikings, seagoing warriors who a thousand years ago dominated the Baltic, North Atlantic (and, just for a change of pace, occasionally terrorized some Mediterranean shores). However, the "official" origins of Tallinn date back "only" to the 13th century when a castle was built there by the crusading knights of the Teutonic Order. This first settlement was not too far from today's Tallinn.

The first known ruler of Estonia was Valdemar II, King of Denmark but this royal Estonian line didn't last very long. Perhaps because of the beauty of region but more probably because of its strategic location, successive waves of invaders appeared in Tallinn. Swedish and German conquerors had particularly strong influences as Tallinn, a walled and heavily fortified, developed as a major center of the Hanseatic League.

It became a wealthy city, as demonstrated by the opulence of the public buildings (city hall and churches in particular) and the architecture of the merchants' houses. Remarkably, these structures have survived to a surprising degree despite the ravages of fire and war in the intervening years). There are few places in Europe where the aura of the 14th and 15th centuries survives intact the way they do in Tallinn’s Old Town. It is a jumble of medieval walls and turrets, needing spires, and winding cobbled streets.

It wasn't until 1918 that the city threw off its foreign rule--- but even then independence didn't last for in 1940, Soviet troops occupied Estonia and the country became part of the USSR. (The incorporation of Estonia into the USSR was never recognized by the United States.) With the collapse of the Soviet Union, Estonia declared its independence in August 1991. With the departure of the last Russian troops in 1994, Tallinn emerged sparkling with optimism and progressive attitude. Free to establish political ties with Western Europe, Estonia joined both NATO and the EU in the spring of 2004. Economically, Tallin has become so thoroughly westernized that it is sometimes jokingly referred to as "the southernmost suburb of Helsinki."

Tallinn Highlights

St. Olav's Church (Oleviste kirik) was once the tallest building in the world .

Old Town

Since 2000, Tallinn has had a boom in tourism, especially daytrippers who visit from Helsinki, its sister city across the Baltic. (Many Finns make the short ferry trip to Tallinn specifically to buy beer and other alcoholic products. Curiously, they can usually buy their favorite Finnish brands cheaper in Tallinn than they can at home!). Entered on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997, Tallinn has also been discovered by European tour operators and cruise ship lines.

Build mainly in the built from 1400-1600, Tallinn is often "sold" as the perfect example of a medieval city. Its winding, cobblestoned streets of its Old Town have been converted into fashionable shopping venues reminiscent of Zürich or Geneva. Souvenirs, of course, but also art works, pottery, lingerie, candies, liquor, furs, wool sweaters, and leather goods are all available in profusion! Action radiates outward from the Raekoja Plats, the square in the heart of the Old City. This square, ringed with cafes and restaurants, is dominated by the needle-like spire of the Raekoda (Town Hall) , built in 1371.

Old Town and tourists aside, the new center of Tallinn is Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square) just outside the gates at the edge of the old town. Other than apartment buildings carrying over from Soviet times, the square's major landmark is the Hotel Viru, the former Intourist flagship and notorious den of Cold War intrigue (every room was tapped and monitored by KGB listeners!). After the Red Army left, the Hotel Viru was said to be the Estonian headquarters of the post-USSR Russia Mafia and sometimes was called "The Flying Hotel" because so many of its guests somehow exited the hotels from their room windows.

Concert Amphitheater

A gigantic amphitheater just outside of town was the site so-called the 1987 Singing Revolution,the event that is often credited as beginning of the independence movement of the three Baltic states in 1991. Innocently enough, it was built during the Soviets era as a place for outdoor concerts, especially Song Festivals. Over time, these choral gatherings became more and more nationalistic and political in nature. One day in 1987, 300,000 people packed it amphitheater and the grassy incline, peacefully gathered to sing songs from Estonia's past. This event brought the stirring nationalism of the Estonian people to the surface and marked the beginning of the end for Soviet rule. Similar "folkrisings" occurred in neighboring Latvia and Lithuania. As an example of their unity, the people of these three countries linked together in a 350-mile long human chain connecting the three Baltic capitals--- Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius--- to show solidarity and desire for freedom.

The Toompea

Also called also "Cathedral Hill," the Toompea is believed by many to be the place the Estonian folk hero, Kalevipoeg, buried. (It should be noted that there are many such legendary burial places for him throughout Estonia.) The Toompea has almost always been governmental center of Estonia--- first for the Danish Vikings, then the Knights of the Teutonic Order, later the Swedish kings, and finally Russian and Soviet governors. Toompea remains the seat of the Estonian government, the home of the Riigikogu, and is also the home of embassies and residencies. The major tourist attractions of Toompea are the Castle (Castrum Danorum) and two religious centers-– the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the Lutheran Toomkirik. The Toomkirik is the oldest church in Tallinn while the Nevsky Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Alexander Nevsky who in 1242 won the Battle of the Ice on Lake Peipus, is city’s largest and grandest cupola cathedral. (This cathedral is disliked by many Estonians because it reminds them of the years of Russian domination. The Toompea also has pleasant streets for strolling and one of the best views in all Estonia is that of the city as seen from one of the massive medieval ramparts.

Rocca al Mare

Located on the shore of the Kopli Gulf, the Estonian Open Air Museum is a park dedicated to Estonia's farming history and folk heritage. Open every day of the year, the complex features nearly a hundred farm buildings from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries and also includes examples of other buildings that typify traditional Estonian village life--- an inn, family huts, a school, a chapel, a fire shed and windmills. There are costumed guides to explain Estonian customs and history and even a old building where coffee, tea, and traditional cake is served. A small gift shop has souvenirs and local crafts for sale and it is a real treat to sample the pea soup and other traditional foods at Kolu Tavern. Groups of folk dancers performer on at scheduled time, adding to the authenticity of the experience.

Kadriorg Palace

Tourists interested in architecture, especially that dating to Russia's imperial era, must include Kadriorg on their sightseeing itinerary. In the larger sense, Kadriorg is a beautiful and rich seaside resort district featuring wooden buildings constructed from 1700 through 1900 and also Art Deco and Functionalist structures from the 20th century. More specifically, Kadriorg refers to the baroque pearl of Estonia, the Kadriorg Palace and Garden. This magnificent, extravagant palace,was built in 1718 on the command of Peter the Great, who intended it as a summer residence for the royal family and named it after his wide, Catherine I. (Catherine is Kadri in Estonian, hence the name of the area.) The architect was the Italian, Niccolo Michetti, the same master who was responsible for many of the spectacular public buildings and private villas in St. Petersburg. The construction of the Kadriorg Palace marked the beginning of Tallinn's fame as a summer resort for noble and rich of Russia for most of the 18th and 19th centuries. A part of the complex is nowadays occupied by the Office of the President but it is also home to the Kadriorg Art Museum offers a very nice collection of international art treasures. There are also intricately kept, manicured formal gardens on the grounds .

St. Birgitta Convent

Situated in Pirita area just outside of Tallinn are the ruins of the 15th century convent named for the Scandinavian Saint Birgitta. This structure was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 during Livonian war but the ruins have been kept in good condition and are one of Tallinn's landmark attractions. The roof has long gone but some of the walls, including a massive stone triangle at one end, and the clear evidence of a network of guestrooms, crypt, chapels, etc. still remains. Starting in 2005, s, the St. Birgitta festival has been held on the grounds. This is a unique festival of music and theater that aspires to become the symbolic festival of Tallinn, as well as a major event of the whole cultural world, keeping in mind the designation of Tallinn as the European Capital of Culture for the year 2011.

Internet Links
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	Digital Tallinn		Official Webpage of the US Embassy in Tallinn
	Tallinn in Your Pocket		UNESCO World Heritage: Tallinn
	Time Out Travel: Tallinn City Guide		Estonia Tourist Guide