REYKJAVIK,
ICELAND
September 24, 2008
September 24, 2008
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REYKJAVIK,
ICELAND
September 24, 2008 |
BACKGROUND
Settlement
Irish monks seeking solitude are generally thought to have the first people to arrive in Iceland, probably around the mid-700s. But, history books usually say that Iceland 's "Discovery and Settlement" period was between 874 and 930 when political strife across Scandinavia forced many Nordic people to flee westwards. According to popular lore, Iceland was settled by those great adventurers and explorers, the Norwegian Vikings, who were trying to escape the efforts of Harald the Fair Haired to bring all Scandinavians under his dominion.
The settlement of Iceland, the world's eighteenth largest island, is recorded in the Landnámabók. Although compiled in the early twelfth century when at least two hundred years had passed since the arrival of the first Viking colonists, it is still considered to provide reasonably accurate data. This reference, along with many of Iceland's famous sagas, indicates that Ingolfur Arnarson, a Norwegian chieftain, was the first Scandinavian settler. He and his family are said to have arrived in 874, establishing their farm on the land where Reykjavik, the present Icelandic capital is located. Interestingly, all of the island's arable territory seems to have been claimed by within sixty years.
(Factoid: In addition to Iceland, Viking seafarers traveled further west, some settling in Greenland and others actually reaching the American continent which they named Vínland in approximately 1,000 AD.)
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Governance
Remembering why they
fled Norway, Iceland's first settlers did not want to give power to a single
ruler--- they had had enough of kings. Instead, for whatever governance they
might need, each settlement formed a goðar,
the collective name for a group of local leaders who were individually called
goði . When major problems involving more than one settlement arose,
meetings of their respective goðar were held. These meetings were called
þings.
(The þ [thorn] in Icelandic is pronounced
the same as the th in thing.
The ð (eth) is pronounced the same as the th
in that.)
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In the year 930, the
settlers established the Alþing
--- their central parliament. This body still convenes today and is believed
to be the world's oldest national assembly. One of the major decisions to be
made by the Alþing came in 1000 when after considerable debate, it voted
to abandon their pagan Norse
gods--- Odin, Thor, Freya, Tyr, Loki, and others--- and adopt Catholicism
as the official
Icelandic religion.
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But, after three hundred years of parliamentary self-rule, it transpired that local conflicts led to the ascendancy of a particularly powerful family group. Sturla Þórðarson (Thordsson) and his sons Þórður, Sighvatur, and Snorri engineered a pact with the Norwegian king, Haakon IV, that in the end cost Iceland its early independence. This Sturlungaöld (Age of the Sturlungs) marked the beginning of almost seven centuries of first Norwegian and then Danish control under which it suffered greatly. For example, Denmark forced Iceland to give up Catholicism and adopt the Lutheran church and also mandated that required that all of Iceland's shipping and commerce go exclusively through Danish hands. This trade monopoly actually remained in effect until 1854.
One of greatest
natural disasters in the recorded history of mankind occurred in Iceland in
1783. The Laki eruption, also known as the Skaftáreldar (Skaftá
River Fires") or Síðueldur, lasted eight months during which
time it spewed out an estimated three and a half cubic miles of lava! Ash from
the eruption was reported as far away as Syria and in America Ben Franklin noted
the atmospheric effects of the eruption in his scientific journals. In Iceland,
these eruptions contaminated the grazing lands which led to the loss of most
of the island's livestock, acid rains that resulted in widespread crop failure,
and famine conditions that led the death of thousands. These
factors combined to reduced the island's population from seventy-five thousand
in the twelfth century to just half that number in 1800!
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Independence
Throughout the 1800s, a battle for independence was fought with the Danish government and although Iceland kept gaining ground, it was not until 1944 that the island regained its full independence from Denmark and established the current Republic of Iceland. June 17, the Icelandic Independence Day ( "þjóðhátíðardagurinn"), is a major annual event, parades, street theater, sideshows, and dancing. Oddly enough, June 17 was chosen not for the signing of any "freedom document such as theAmerican Declaration of Indiepedence but, rather, because it is the birthday of the political activist, Jón Sigurðsson (Sigurdsson), who s regarded as the father of Iceland's modern nation.
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Today, Iceland is a modern social democracy and its citizens, much like their Scandinavian neighbors, enjoy a high standards of living . The government provides universal health care, education from kindergarten through graduate school, annual paid vacation days, and guaranteed retirement. The darker side of human society--- Illiteracy, poverty, prostitution and violent crime-- is almost entirely absent. Its economy, based mainly on the fishing, tourism, geothermal, and high-tech industries, make Iceland one of the world's wealthiest "income per capita" nations.
(Factoid: All of Iceland's societal benefits come with a price, of course, namely an income tax rate that claims almost half of a person's salary.)
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THE CITY
Iceland's capital, Reykjavik (Bay of Smokes) is the northern most national capital in the world and, with fewer than two hundred thousand people, is also the smallest in Europe. Despite its North Atlantic location, Reykjavik is not as cold as might be expected.--- average winter temperatures are no lower than those in Toronto or New York City because the island's weather is influenced by the warm Gulf Stream waters. Winter nights also often offer the glorious the Northern Lights (aurora borealis). However, being on the coast, the city does have unusually strong winds and, like the states of the USA's Pacific Northwest, it has a lot of rain---- more than two hundred drippy days every year!
Summer rarely rise above 65º F--- 75º C is considered an almost uncomfortable heat wave and if it gets this warm, it is mostly just for a few day as, a week at the most. The sun shines twenty-four hours a days throughout most of June, July, and August and people to delight in being outdoors at all hours for games, shopping, and just visiting with neighbors on the streets.
Reykjavik has become a popular tourist destination in recent years. Most of Iceland's visitors focus their attention on the natural attractions out in the countryside but there are some interesting and worthwhile places to see inside the city limits. For example, Perlan (The Pearl), on Oskjuhlid Hill, is the the city's landmark example of modern architecture. This giant steel and glass dome, built atop hot water storage tanks, features a modernistic statues on the grounds and an observation deck and revolving restaurant providing a 360º view of the surrounding cityscape as well as sightlines to mountain ranges on the coastline.
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In terms of language, Icelandic is very difficult or the beginner but, fortunately, visitors do not have to tackle the tongue's complexities as most people in Iceland speak excellent English. (Icelandic actually has the same roots as Old English. In fact, a thousand years or so ago, English and Icelandic were mutually intelligible.)
þings TO SEE AND DO IN TOWN
Old Town and Harbor Area
While most of Iceland's sights are out in the countryside, tourists almost always take the "obligatory" tour of the Old Town and harbor area. Old Town is centered around the Tjörnin, a small lake (or maybe just a big pond) on whose shores the above mentioned Ingólfur Arnarson founded the original settlement in 874. It is here where both the Town Hall and Alþing, or National Assembly, are located. Overlooking the Old Town and the harbor is a grassy knoll known as Arnarhóll, which presents a fine panorama of midtown Reykjavík.
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As memorialized by a waterside sculpture of a ancient Viking longship, ships have been arriving in the Reykjavik area for over a thousand years. However, the first "commercial facility," the so-called Old Harbor, is comparatively new on the scene, having been constructed in the early 1900s. Until 1968 it was an all-purpose fish and transport harbor and the biggest port in Iceland. The fishing fleet still uses the Old Harbor but in 1968 major import and export shipping operations were moved from the to the so-called Sundahöfn area a mile or so up the fjord.
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As is the case in many port cities
around the world, urban renewal has arrived in Reykjavik. The old shipyard by
the harbor is gradually being removed to make room for a new residential area
that some say is necessary in order to revitalize the city center. As part of
the "new look," the Harbor House Museum, a division of the Reykjavik
Art Museum, has been opened at the harbor and construction of both a concert
hall/conference center and a state-of-the-art cruise ship terminal is under
way.
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Parts of the old remain, however,
adding a touch of color and nostalgia. It is not unusual to see sailing ships,
many of them replicas of famous vessels from the past, side by side with modern
container vessels, tralwers, Coast Guard cutters, and, to the chagrin of many,
the fleet of black-hulled whalers.
In 2006, the Skarfabakki Quay,
where cruise ships arrive, was officially opened with a total quay length of
over twelve hundred feet and an operating land area of some twenty-four acres.
Complete development of Skarfabakki Quay is expected to be completed by 2012.
It has been reported that as of 2008, some seventy cruise
ships with approximately 60,000 passengers arrive the Reykjavík Port
yearly. At the old haror, visitors will find several shops with gorgeous
wool knitwear--- sweaters, scarves, and mittens--- as well as those offering
handrafted pottery, jewelry, and, of curse, the usual assortment of souvenirs.
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Hallgimskirkja (Hallgrímur's Church)
Seemingly guarded by the statue of Leif Erickson, the Hallgrimskirkja is Reykjavik's tallest building and probably its best known symbol. Named after Iceland's medieval poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson, Hallgrímskirkja (literally, the Church of Hallgrímur) is approximately two hundred fifty feet tall and its tower can be seen from almost every point in the city. The column-like appearance is meant to represent the hexagonal columns that formed when lava cooled in the sea after Iceland's many geothermal eruptions (as also seen at the Giant's Causeway near Belfast, Northern Ireland).
With a capacity of twelve hundred,
Hallgrímskirkja is the largest church of the country. It took longer
to build than than any other structure in Iceland and has at times been the
focus of considerable controversy. Sited situated on a hill (Skolavorduholt)
it looks over the Old Town section of Reykjavik.
(Factoid: There is only one Catholic church in Iceland
---about 95% of the nation's population belongs to the Lutheran Church and generation
after generation of Icelanders have read, memorized, and quoted Pétursson's
his best known work, Hymns of the Passion.)
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The Hallgrímskirkja organ, the largest in Iceland, stands fifty feet high and weighs some twenty-five tons. In addition to being played during religions services, it is also often used for special concerts. The organ's pipes were paid for by public subscriptions and, interestingly, the larger the pipe, the larger the donation required to "sponsor" it. Another way of raising money for the organ has been through the sale of a CD of the inauguration concert and other Icelandic organ works.
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Hallgrímskirkja has many other interesting features. The the large, stained window above the front entrance of the church, called "Glory, Power, and Respect," was designed and made by the internationally-known artist Leifur Breidfjord. Breidfjord was additionally responsible for the pulpit decorations--- symbolic representations of the Trinity and the Greek initials of Christ (X and P) surrounded by Alpha and Omega. The verse on the canopy is from the 44th Hymn of the Passion and the dow under the canopy represents the Holy Ghost. Visitors wanting a fabulous panoramic view of Reykjavik the can go by elevator to the top of the steeple (although there is a small charge that goes into the church's maintenance fund). In the steeple there are three big bells--- Hallgrimur, Gudrun and Steinunn--- as well as a twenty-nine bell carillon that sounds on the hour all through the day.
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Reykjavik's City Hall (Ráðhúsið) is a recent addition to the cityscape but the nation of having such place goes back over two centuries to the time that the city was first given its municipal charter. Through all those years, city officials considered and debated, considered and debated, and then considered and debated some more--- little agreement could be reached on such questions as "Where should the City Hall be sited?" "What should the building look like?" "Who should be in charged of its design?" Finally, in 1987, however, the city leaders agreed to build the City Hall near Lake Tjornin in the heart of the city and sent out an announcement asking architects for design proposals. Four years later, Iceland's capital city had its City Hall, a place not only for official city business but for cultural exhibitions and events.
The City Hall, which covers an area of nearly 60,000 square feet, was designed to blend with the lake and surrounding landscape. Building material were selected with the idea of keeping the structure looking bright, cheery, and friendly in all kinds of weather weather. Its smooth concrete exterior is light colored but various "rough edges" of various natural materials give the building a subtly"solid" appearance. The "natural look" is furthered by well-placed trees, shrubbery, and other vegetation.
The building is split into four two-level units. The offices of the City Council and executives are on the top story while the ground floor has rooms for official receptions, art exhibitions, and other public functions. The Tjarnarsalur Room contains a huge topographical model of Iceland that is very popular with those visiting Iceland for the first time and who want an encompassing view of the island's features. The ground floor also has a cafe where people can admire the view--- the building's moss-covered wall, Tjornin lake, and flocks of ducks, geese and swans--- as they enjoy their coffee and snacks.
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Tjornin Lake is a small, peaceful retreat located right in the middle of Reykjavik. Noted for its year-round population of birds, it is a favorite spot for children who like to feed the ducks and for young people who, lacking other places of privacy, stroll around its shores. People also enjoy a nice park-- the Hljomskalagardurinn--- next to the lake. Tjornin is fed from underground geothermal sources and a channel beneath the streets carries waters to empty into the harbor. The lake freezes almost completely over during the winter months, making it a natural venue for ice skating and hockey games.
(Factoid: Since the lake is fed by geothermal water, a small section of it remains unfrozen making it the lake the permanent home of a particular group of geese who defy their natural migration instinct.)
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National Museum
Visitors interested in history
should make it a point to spend a couple of hours at Iceland's National
Museum ( Þjóðminjasafn Íslands) whose exhibits
trace nation's development from the earliest days of discovery and settlement
in the 800s through today's modern nation. Until the museum was opened in 1863
most valuable items relating to Icelandic heritage were kept in museums in Denmark,
the "mother" country. .At first, the museum's fledgling collection
was physically housed in several places around in Reykjavik--- the Cathedral,
the Parliament, the National Library, and even the National Bank.
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When Iceland became independent in 1944, there was an immediate movement to construct a single home for the nation's cultural and historical treasures. Accordingly, a new structure for the National Museum was built and opened four years later. Since then, the building has been renovated and remodeled and is now the equal of any similar museum in Europe.
Called the place where Iceland's present meets it's past, the museum's centerpiece is its Making of a Nation - Heritage and History in Iceland exhibition which includes about two thousand objects from the settlement period to the present. Making of a Nation is designed as a trip through time, beginning with the ship the Vikings used to reach their new home and ending with representation of modern Iceland as busy international airport. The museum is "interactive" and encourages "hands on" involvement, especially for school children (who delight in playing the roles of Vikings--- complete with costumes).
Also very popular have been the National Gallery of Photograph's exhibit, Formative Icelandic Photography, which features highlights from the museum’s archives of over two million photographs from 1900 onward, Tying the Knot–Icelandic Wedding Customs, which delves into Icelanders' marriage customs from Viking times to the present day, and a map of Iceland formed by china teacups.
Guided tours are included in the modest admission fee and after the tour visitors can browse in the gift shop which carries books, high-quality specially items, and handicrafts, all reinforcing the museum's educational atmosphere. In addition, a cafeteria offers snacks, tea, coffee, and soft drinks, as well as several traditional and a variety of Icelandic "treats."
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Árbær Open-Air Folk Museum (Arbaejarsafn)
An interesting counterpoint to Reykjavik's modern architecture, the Árbær Folk Museum preserves some fine examples of traditional Icelandic architecture. Founded in 1957, the museum started an exhibit with one old original rammed earth shelter and now includes an old turf church from Northern Iceland, a turf farm building, and a collection of farm and domestic implements illustrating nineteenth century country life. Exhibits variety of exhibits range from historical information to period furnishings and even cooking demonstrations. Throughout the summer long-forgotten arts and skills are demonstrated by Icelanders who remember the old way of life. (Note: Although the explanatory signs and labels are in Icelandic, audio devises are available in other languages to assist visitors as they go from building to building.)
Next to the museum is the Islendingur (Icelander), a full-scale replica of a Viking long ship that shipbuilder Gunnar Eggertsson sailed to America in 2000 to commemorate the thousand-year anniversary of the Viking discovery of North America. Also, as a side benefit of their visit, tourists can also sample traditional Icelandic pancakes at the old-style Dillonhus restaurant and pick up a few souvenirs at the museum gift shop.
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National Art Gallery (Listasafn)
Houses in a typical postmodernistic structure dating from the 1980s, Iceland's National Gallery has the country's largest and most significant collection of nineteenth and twentieth century art. The museum has a continuing series of exhibitions and a growing permanent collection that includes works by both major Icelandic artists and noted foreign artists--- Miro, Picasso, Munch, Appel, Hartung, Vasarely, Serra, Tutle, etc. The Gallery also hosts special shows by individual artists from all over Iceland as well other nations, especially the coutry's Scandinavian neighbors. A very popular part of the museum's program area "Meet the Artist" at which school children (and other, too, of course) get the opportunity to talk and interact with the painters and sculptors whose work is on display.
The Museum has a gift shop with a growing variety of books, catalogues, prints, posters, and postcards. There is also an on-site cafe.
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Food and Drink
Reykjavik has plenty good restaurants offering Icelandic specialties and traditional foods but a decent meal in even the "average" places can cost well over $30 a person, without a cocktail, wine, or coffee. Seafood--- haddock, cod, plaice, halibut, herring and shrimp--- from the unpolluted waters of the North Atlantic, is the mainstay of the Icelandic diet so is not surprising, therefore, that fish specialties can be found in most Reykjavik restaurants. Poultry is also a popular dinner table item, with chicken, duck, turkey, and even wild birds commonly found on menus. Surprising to some since Iceland is located near the Arctic Circle, locally-grown vegetables are also served in restaurants--- cabbage and potatoes are grown outdoors while other vegetables and fruits come from nearby geothermal hot houses.
Over eighty types of types of cheese are made in Iceland and a unique dish, Skyr, which is a concoction falling somewhere between yogurt and whey, has been a favorite for centuries--- at least among Icelanders.
Those insisting on absolutely authentic Icelandic dishes will want to sampling"Thorramatur," a preserved foods like smoked and salted lamb, singed sheep heads, dried halibut, pickled herring, cured shark, and various other delicacies. Traditional breads include laufabrauð (deep-fried paper-thin bread), kleinur (similar to doughnuts), and rye pancakes. ("Non-traditonal" favorites can also be found, much to satisfaction or those tourists from the USA who have been away from home for a long period.)
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Since 1985 when Reagan and Gorbachev met in Reykjavik as a prelude to the end of the Cold War, the city has emerged developed a reputation as an international "hot spot" for those seeking nightlife. Literally thousands of tourists arrive in the city to take in its bars and clubs. To the dismay of some, visitors find that alcoholic drinks are horribly expensive in Iceland--- a bottle of beer is more that $7 US and a vodka tonic will cost at least $10. When purchased by the bottle, beer, wine, and hard liquor are available only from government stores and taxes are very high. For example, a fifth of ordinary gin can cost upwards of $50!
Considering its size, Reykjavik appears to have a disproportionate number
of pubs, bars, and cocktail lounges (including an Icelandic version of Stockholm's
famous Ice Bar). Thus, visitors will have no trouble finding a place to quench
a thirst. Interestingly enough, a
recent government report pointed out that the government of Iceland takes in
over on $112 million a year from alcohol taxes, nearly $400 for every man, woman,
and child in the country. (Considering that prohibition was only ended some
twenty years ago, but the locals seem to have made up for lost time!) This money
goes straight into the nation's general fund, not earmarked for any special
purpose, although the government does allocate a small portion of alcohol tax
income, less than 10%, for support of alcoholism treatment and prevention programs.
As a fnal note, tipping is not necessary in Iceland--- the VAT tax and gratuity
included in the bill.
(Factoid: Alcohol taxes generate 40% more money for the Icelandic government
than do gasoline taxes.)
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Attractions for Visitors
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The
Golden Circle (Thingvellir National
Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, Geyser Strokku, & Kerið) |
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Blue Lagoon & Krýsuvík |
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Shopping |
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Whale Watching |
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Return to Ports of Call page. |
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Return to main Baltic and Transatlantic Cruise page. |
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Return to main Joan and Ralph page. |
