Havis Amanda, one of Helsinki's "signature" statues, stands near the harbor between the Market Square and Esplanade.
Helsinki,
Finland
September 10, 2008
September 10, 2008
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Havis Amanda, one of Helsinki's "signature" statues, stands near the harbor between the Market Square and Esplanade. |
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Helsinki,
Finland
September 10, 2008 |
Country Background
Although most people associate Finland (Suomi in the Finnish language) with forests, Lapland, reindeer, and maybe Santa Claus, it actually is a highly advanced industrialized country with one of the world's highest standards of living. One of Europe's largest countries in area, it is a republic, independent since 1917, and a member of the European Union since 1995. Its population is approximately five and a half million, 10% of whom live in and around Helsinki, the capital city. The nation's twenty-first century economy is technology-oriented, with the metal, engineering, and electronics industries accounting for about 60% of exports. Finland is one of the leading countries in Internet use and there are now more mobile phones than land-line telephones in use. Surprisingly, the country's traditional forest products industry today accounts for only about 20% of the national gross product.
One notable effect of Finland's northerly position on the globe is that the four seasons of the year are clearly distinct from one another. The climate is marked by cold winters and warm summers. The mean annual temperature in Helsinki, is 45° F. The daytime temperature during southern Finland's summers occasionally rises to over 90° F but during the winter months, particularly in January and February, temperatures of -15° F are not uncommon. In the far north, beyond the Arctic Circle, the summer sun does not set for nearly two and a half months but in the same region the sun remains below the horizon for almost two months, creating the polar night known in Finnish as kaamos.
As for Finland's history, it is commonly believed the Finns are descended from the Finno-Ugric tribes that migrated to Europe from the regions in or just beyond the Ural Mountain. The Finns are, therefore, immediately related to the Estonians, their neighbors only fifty miles south across the Baltic Sea, and, far, far more remotely, the Hungarians, whose language contains some of the same basic elements as Finnish and Estonian. While today Finns and Estonians can get along linguistically (at least a little bit), neither can recognize much of anything in Hungarian.
Finland is one the world's "crossroads" countries--- its location has made it a land over and through which armies from two powerful neighbors--- Sweden and Russia--- have passed for a hundreds of years. Ruled by both of these countries in times gone by, Finland finally became independent in 1917. Although it lost two wars to the Soviet Union between 1939 and 1944, it never lost its independence nor fell under complete Soviet control. The story of Finland's post-World War II national survival and emergence as a strong, vibrant member of the world community is both fascinating and inspiring.
 If the shape of Finland resembles a long-skirted woman holding her right arm the air, then Helsinki is near her right foot. Sometimes known as either the Daughter of the Baltic or the White City of the Baltic, the city sits between its two great trading partners, Stockholm and Moscow. The regions that once made up the woman's left arm and foot--- the Petsamo area in the northeast and most of the Karelian Peninsula in the southeast, were annexed by the Soviet Union in the 1940s. |
Helsinki
Helsinki is a comparatively young city in European terms. While under early Swedish rule, Finland's major city was Turku (Abo, in Swedish), located west of where Helsinki is now sited. It wasn't until 1550 that King Gustav Vasa of Sweden founded Helsinki because he wanted to have a port on the Gulf of Finland that could compete with Tallinn, the Hanseatic League city that dominated the lucrative trade route with Russia. He called the new town Helsingfors, a name still used by Swedish-speaking Finns.
Helsinki’s early years were marked by a continuum of problems--- disease, poverty, and a series of minor wars--- and it never established itself as a strong city under the Swedes. At the beginning of the 1800s, Russia defeated Sweden in the so-called Finnish War and made Finland a semiautonomous area, a Grand Duchy. It was at that time that Helsinki began to grow. Czar Alexander I made the development of the city a major priority, establishing a university, developing a master plan for the city's growth, and making Helsinki the capital of the Grand Duchy. These actions almost immediately elevated Helsinki's European reputation.
Industrialization led to great growth throughout the 1800s--- railroads were established, factories were built, and the population increased several times over. However, an economic slump in the early 1900s, combined with the Finnish Civil War in 1918, led to hard times in Helsinki (and, for that matter, in all other parts of Finland). This was a period of considerable migration to the United States and Canada.
All in all, however, the newly independent republic developed briskly during the 1920s. The architecture of the 1920s and 1930s was marked by classicism and functionalism and was manifest in the new districts of Töölö. When Helsinki was designated to replace Tokyo as the host of the 1940 summer games, a new Olympic Stadium was constructed. But, the 1940 games were postponed when the Soviets attacked Finland in late 1939 and two wars ensued. (Factoid: Although the 1940 games were postponed due to the world war, they were finally held in 1952 and Helsinki still holds the record as the smallest city in the world to host the Summer Olympics.)
During the Winter War of 1939-40 and the Continuation War of 1941-44, Helsinki was frequently bombed by the Soviet planes but luckily suffered relatively little damage. Unlike all other European states involved in the Second World War, Finland was never occupied by foreign forces and remains one of the few European countries with a record of continuous democratic rule from the end of the First World War to the present.
In the postwar years, traditionally
agrarian Finland began its transformation into a modern industrial nation and
people began to leave the rural regions in large numbers to settle in the south,
mainly in the Helsinki area. Under pressure to provide housing for the steadily
expanding population, the city quickly developed suburbs, such as Herttoniemi
and Maunula in the 1950s and Pihlajamäki in the 1960s. After independence,
Helsinki's industries included timber and wood/paper products, food and metal
processing, printing, textiles, and clothing. However, since the late 1990s,
the city's economy has gradually turned to electronics (think Nokia!) and such
heavy industries as shipbuilding (ice breakers and cruise ships in particular.)
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When Finland joined the European
Union in 1995, a new era was once again started for the the capital, this time
one of international leadership. In 2000, Helsinki celebrated its 450th anniversary,
an event that was accompanied by its designation as one of Europe's Cities
of Culture. Today, as more and more people around the world hear of
Finland, Helsinki has rapidly developed as a destination for those looking for
something "off the beaten track."
(Factoids: On a "per capita" basis, Finns are
the most literate people on Earth, the world's biggest consumers of books, newspapers,
and magazines. In 2007, Finland once again came out top in the Organization
for Economic Cooperation and Development's study of learning skills among European
fifteen year olds, with performances in mathematics and science matching those
of top-ranking Asian schools.)
Sightseeing Tours
Helsinki is easy to get around on foot and it is quite possible to take a self-guided walking tour that covers most of its major sightseeing attractions in a few hours. A typical sightseeing tour includes the city center, Russian-type government buildings of Senate Square, the gleaming white Cathedral and nearby Uspensky Orthodox Cathedral, and tree-lined Esplanade with its buzzing shops and cafes, as well as the attractive waterfront, city parks, and Suomenlinna sea fortress--- Helsinki’s own UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sightseeing buses provide a painless way to absorb a bit of Finnish history and Helsinki' s regular green and yellow city trolleys offer visitors another option for sightseeing. Of special note is Trolley #T3 whose route includes most of Helsinki's highlights. (Internet users can Download a guide for this tour that includes an audio narration and pictures of the city's most important landmarks. (www.dewhurstdesigns.co.uk/helsinki/)
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Here
are a few key words to work on as you prepare to venture forth to
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Similarly, boat tours around the harbor and nearby islands are very popular, especially on sunny summer days when it is possible to get in some tanning when seated on the upper deck. Sunlines is only one of the companies that operates day cruises from the docks at Market square. Dinner cruises are also very popular for tourists and local people alike.
For a novel sightseeing experience
during the tourist season (May-August), try the Spårakoff,
a forty-year old trolley car that
has been converted into a forty passenger"bar on tracks." It
is a great way to see the city while enjoying Helsinki's best selling a beer,
Koff. The tour begins at the trolley stop next to the Central Railroad Station
and proceeds along a figure-eight route that passes almost all of Helsinki's
major sights--- the National Gallery, Pitkäsilta Bridge, Hakaniemi Market
Square, the Kallio Library, Linnanmäki Amusement Part, Töölö
Bay, Olympic Stadium, Helsinki Opera House, Finlandia Hall, the National Museum,
Parliament Building, Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art, the Mannerheim statue,
Old Student House, Stockmann department store, Market Square, Presidential Palace,
and finally Senate Square. The entire loop takes about forty minutes and costs
about $10, not including drinks.
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Ferry to Suomenlinna Island
Located in the middle of Helsinki's harbor, only a fifteen minutes ferry ride from the Market Square, Suomenlinna Fortress (Finland Castle) is one of the largest maritime fortifications in the world and probably the most significant military monument in Finland. Originally named Sveaborg, it was built in the mid-1700s when Finland was part of Sweden. In 1808, Russia defeated Sweden and took control of Finland and Suomenlinna served as a Russian fortress for the next hundred years. Oddly enough, the bastion was never really heavily fortified but this didn't prevent it from being shelled and sustaining severe damaged during the Crimean War in 1855. When Finland finally gained independence, the fortress was renamed Suomenlinna and served as a Finnish garrison for more than fifty years.
Today, it is a wonderful island park, perfect for summer picnics. Visitors can wander along paths among the ramparts, explore dark tunnels and old munitions bunkers, and go through the military museum with old cannons and large guns pointed towards Russia. They can also enjoy a meal in a fine restaurant or take in one of the concerts or other special events that occur periodically during the year. The fortress is on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites which counts it as one the most remarkable cultural treasures in the world.
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Kauppatori (Market Square)
The first "major sight" cruise ship passengers encounter when they disembark at South Harbor is the Kauppatori or Market Square. This is lively a place where you can buy and sample just about everything that is Finnish or made in Finland. Markets and food reveal a lot about people--- their culture, habits ,and quality of life---- and the Kauppatori is the perfect place to discover what the Finns like to eat and drink. This market has stood at its present site since the 1800s and generations of families have owned the same stands.
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The Market Square opens in the early morning hours where venders arrive with their produce, fish, baked goods, and souvenir items. All year long, no matter what the weather, thousands of Helsinki residents make their way to the square even before the sun comes up to enjoy the day's first cup of coffee and to gossip with friends. Hundreds more arrive later in the day for a quick lunch or, in many cases, a quick beer! (Factoids: Finns drink more coffee per capita than any other group in the world and do pretty well with the beer, too. Their bread of choice is rye, and when it comes to candy, they love licorice--- ask for "salmiakki" (SAL-me-ah-key) at the candy store or newspaper kiosk. )
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Housewives arrive after daybreak to pick and choose among the flowers, fruits, vegetables, fish, and meats displayed in small tent-like stands and on small boats tied up at the pier--- only the freshest items will suffice. It is not uncommon, either, to see workers from nearby offices and shops passing along the aisles in search of just the right ingredients for the evening's meal.
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Then, of course, there are the tourists from all over the world --- Germany, North America, Japan, Spain, Holland, Namibia, England, and all other countries--- seeking out souvenirs. They inspect everything on display--- T-shirts and I Love Suomi buttons, reindeer hides and slippers from Lapland, gorgeous knitted hats and mittens, handcrafted necklaces, wooden kitchen utensils, postcards and refrigerator magnets. The Kauppatori is a visual cacophony!
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Esplanade
It is almost certain that half the tourists leaving the Market Square will make their way (cautiously, please!) across an intersection clogged with trolleys, cars, and pedestrian to stand by the statue of Havis Amada, Helsinki's symbolic mermaid (top photo). From there they will enter the Esplanade, a wide tree-lined park area that is almost always alive with activity. There is a large stage where passersby can enjoy all sorts of shows--- folk singers and dancers, rock 'n roll and jazz groups, magicians, jugglers, and occasionally even a military band. Artists and street performers can be seen, as well as local citizens either just relaxing or maybe scurrying off on some imperative errand.
Walking through the Esplanade is in some ways like walking through Helsinki's history. Statues of the nation's most famous personages are all about and many of the Neo-Renaissance buildings that line the two streets that border date back to the city's earliest days. (Throughout the city there are statues of Finnish heroes, statesman, and other noteworthy personages. While many of these famous Finns are all but unknown outside the country, some names are well-known internationally.)
Interestingly, the boulevard was once a political dividing line--- Finnish-speaking Finns walked on the south side (Eteläesplanadi) and Swedish-speaking Finns on the north side (Pohjoisesplanadi). Today, however, these ethnic/linguistic/political divisions are all but gone and the bustling boulevard is a great example of domestic accommodation and international culture, design, and cuisine.
It's a lovely stroll through the park and especially to admire the buildings, the Hotel Kamp being the" icon" structure. The Esplanade has two particularly great places for eating lunch or simply having a drink--- the Teatteri, at the downtown end, and the Kappeli, at the harbor end. There are also sidewalk stands selling sodas, ice cream, etc. Many visitors find that a perfect way to enjoy the Esplanade is simply to buy some goodies--- sweet rolls, strawberries, or cherries--- in Market Square and then retire to an Esplanade bench for some old-fashioned "people watching."
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Shopping
The Esplanade is also probably the best place for visitors to find Helsinki's shopping attractions. It is lined with stores showing off Finland's top-name companies and brands--- Iittala, Aarikka, Marimekko, Pentik, and Arabia, for example. They offer an impressive variety of merchandise, ranging from items with moderate prices to very expensive one-of-a-kind objects designed by famous artists. Tourists looking for things that are uniquely Finnish and that don't take up much suitcase space can't go wrong browsing on either side of the park.
More specifically, Finland's best known producers of ceramics, glassware, and china are Arabia, Nuutajärvi, Iittala, Arabia, and Riihimäki. Particular favorites of tourist shoppers are Arabia's classic and modern collections designed by the country's most noted artists--- Alvar Aalto, Stefan Lindfors and Kaj Frank, for example. These include tableware, glassware, cutlery, and cookware. Equally desired are Iittala products--- crystal objets of all sizes--- known for their reflection of the environment, especially ice forms. (For bargain hunters, a ten-minute ride on the # 6 trolley leaving from the nearby railroad station stops just outside the company’s factory store which offers great bargains as well as café facilities and an exhibition.)
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Those looking for distinctive jewelry will want to visit Kalevala Koru for items crafted from bronze, silver, and gold according to the ancient traditions of Finland's national epic, the Kalevala. Most of these designs date back about a thousand years ago but there are some items in the collection are almost twice that long. All are replicas, variations, or combinations of originals and are made in collaboration with archaeologists. In addition to historical items, beautiful modern pieces in silver or gold, sometimes featuring semiprecious Finnish stones or combining precious metals with wood, are available.
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Marimekko shops definitely offer women the latest word in bold patterned textiles in bright primary colors, as well as clothing and personal accessories. Neighboring shops display such specialty items as paper napkins and greeting cards, necklaces and earrings, small crystal figurines, and dolls. A tourist favorite is Aarikka, the top Finnish specialty manufacturer of designer jewelry and decorative items. Each Aarikka product is handmade and has it's own unique and unusual design but follows a basic design that goes back to the 1950s, when Kaija Aarikka married silver with dyed birch wood. (She actually started out designing buttons and selling them in very small Helsinki shop called Nappi-Aarikka or Button Aarikka.) Marimekko and Aarikka products make perfect souvenirs of Finland.
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Senaatintori (Senate Square)
The 50% of tourists who don't go directly to the Esplanade from the Kauppatori will almost certainly head for Senaatintori (Senate Square). This is just a few blocks from the market and is quite probably the most photographed setting in Helsinki.
The square, framed by buildings reflecting Finland's years as a Grand Duchy of Russia, is considered by many Finns to be the symbolic heart of their nation. It is dominated by the Tuomiokirkko, the white, two-hundred year old Lutheran Cathedral. Statues of Christ and the twelve Apostles adorn the gleaming building's rooftop and each day at 5:49 PM its bell can be heard throughout the city center area. (Although the Cathedral's exterior is imposing, the interior, except of a magnificent organ, is almost stark, undoubted a reflection of early Reformation-guided theology that rejected anything even remotely decorative.)
The architecture of the surrounding buildings--- mostly government and university structures--- is reminiscent of St. Petersburg and well it should be since, as a prominent Russian city for over a hundred years, Helsinki's appearance was dictated largely by the tastes of Russian governors and aristocrats. Almost as soon as Russian control began in the early 1800s, Czar Alexander II and his architects set out to design and build a city that would show both Finns and the rest of the world that a grand new period of well-being had come into being. Senate Square became the center of their plan. The Liberator, a monument to Alexander II, who was both the Russian Czar and the Grand Duke of Finland, is located near the center of the square. (Factoid: Through the years many movies supposedly set in Russia have actually been filmed in Helsinki because it looks so authentically Czarist.)
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The red-brick Finnish Orthodox Uspensky Cathedral is not actually part of the square but is so close nearby that it is always included on the tourist itinerary. Unlike western churches which usually feature dull grey or white façades, almost all Orthodox churches are colorful. With its golden cupolas and red-brick facade, the Uspensky Cathedral is a marvelous example of this Byzantine-Slavonic architectural style. The city's most important Finnish Orthodox structure (and reportedly the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe), the Uspensky Cathedral was built in 1868 and is one of the clearest symbols of Russian impact on Finnish history.
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Downtown
Less than a mile from the harbor area, Helsinki's commercial center is worth some attention from visitors. The main thoroughfare is Mannerheimintie (Mannerheim's Road). This is a wide, heavily traveled avenue named after Field Marshall Carl Gustav Mannerheim, leader of the White Finnish armies during the Finnish Civil War and later "State Governor." The street starts near the Stockmann department store and the Swedish Theater, a location easily found by looking for the Three Smiths statue. This sculpture, unveiled in 1932, depicts three blacksmiths hammering on an anvil. The smiths are naked, a cause of amazement to many tourists, and legend has it that they labor continuously, resting only when a virgin passes by. The top part of the bronze statue's granite base is encircled by Latin words--- MONUMENTUM – CURAVIT – LEGATUM – J. TALLBERGIANUM – PRO HELSINGFORS A.D. MCMXXII. ("This statue was erected with the help of a donation from J. Tallberg by Pro Helsingfors in the year 1932".)
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As Mannerhiementie continues,
sightseers will find many famous buildings, including the House of Parliament,
the main post office, the Kiasma Modern Art Museum, Finlandia Hall, the National
Museum, and the Helsinki Opera House. (The Student House, by the way, is
not a dormitory but, rather a "high rent" office building owned by
the University of Helsinki's student association.)
 Swedish National Theater |
 Stockmann Department Store |
 Main Post Office Building |
 National Museum |
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 Finlandia House |
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Rautatieasema (Railroad Station)
Those interested in architecture, especially the work of Finland's international-known Eliel Saarinen, will want to take a few minutes to visit the Rautatieasema, Helsinki's central railroad station, one of the most widely recognized landmarks in the city. Like almost everything else of short-term interest in Helsinki, this attraction is located within easy walking distance of the main harbor. It is the nexus of public transport in the city, serving as the terminus for the local VR commuter rail network, as well as for a large proportion of Finland's long-distance trains. The associated metro station, the busiest stop on the city's subway system, and an underground shopping mall are also located in the Rautatieasema. (In addition to its architectural appeal, the station is the best place in town for news-starved Americans to purchase copies of USA Today and the International Herald-Tribune)
As a matter of history, Helsinki's rail system goes back to the mid-1800s when a line between between Helsinki and Hämeenlinna was opened. As the popularity of railways grew, the station turned out to be too small, and a contest was organized in 1904 with the intention of producing plans for a new station. Saarinen won the contest with with a pure, national romanticist design but pubic protests caused him revamp his ideas for the structure and come up with a modern, rational style. Continuous problems, including World War I, delayed construction but the station was finally opened in 1919.
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Sibelius Monument
Found in Sibelius Park in the Töölö district, the Sibelius Monument honors arguably the most influential Finn of all time, composer Jean Sibelius (1865-1957). His most monumental work was Finlandia, a "symphonic poem" written at the turn of the twentieth century.
It is necessary to have a little background in order to appreciate Sibelius and his place in the cultural fabric of Finland. Finlandia was composed for a patriotic pageant intended to generate popular support for Finnish independence from the Russian Empire. Most of the piece comprises rousing, almost violent music that evokes thoughts the national struggle of the Finnish people. It was soon banned by the Russians who easily recognized its strident nationalistic nature. The symphony was "renamed" many times for various concerts in order to avoid Russian censorship. Titles under which the piece masqueraded were numerous--- a famously flippant example being "Happy Feelings At The Awakening of Finnish Spring." A small part of the symphony, frequently heard as the Christian hymn, Be Still, My Soul, is one of the most important national songs of Finland although Maamme is the national anthem.
(Factoid: The Finlandia hymn was the national anthem of the short-lived African state of Biafra.)
The monument came about as the result of a public fundraising campaign and competition in 1961-62. The project stirred an unprecedented public debate across Finland--- people were pretty evenly divided as to whether the monument should take a "traditional" or "modern" form. The traditionalist camp camp preferred a "figurative" monument while the modernists called for a more contemporary "abstract" approach. The artist, Eila Hiltunen, first created a eye-catching modernistic sculpture in steel and then, by way of compromise, added a bust of the composer.
Generations pass, opinions and attitudes change. While seen radical at its birth, the Sibelius Monument continues an ancient tradition and objective of monumental sculpture--- permanence. It is the symbol of a genius composer, a grateful nation, and a gifted, determined sculptor. Full-size elements of the monument stand outside the UN Building in New York and a 1:5 scale replica is found on the UNESCO grounds in Paris.
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Stop for History, a Drink, or Lunch
There is no paucity of good eating
and drinking places in Helsinki, many of which offer history and views as well
as food and beverages. For instance, inside an old red-brick storehouse located
quite near the cruise ship pier , the Ravintola Sipuli (Onion Restaurant)
and the Bar Kanava bistro pub offer relaxed, pleasant surroundings for lunch
and/or a cocktail. On a sunny day, outside tables and chairs make the Kanava
great place to "people watch" and on days that are too cold or wet
for sitting outdoors, there is a view of the and beautiful Finnish Orthodox
Uspensky Cathedral from the glass-roofed winter garden and the dining room to
enjoy.
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The Torni Hotel (Hotelli Torni) is one of Helsinki's most famous buildings. Built in 1931 in the "art nouveau" style, it was for a long time the tallest building in all of Finland, over 200 feet high. The Torni has special historical importance as the members of the Soviet Union's post-WWII Security Commission commandeered its top several floors as their headquarters, 1944-47. History aside, the feature that makes the Torni a "must" for Helsinki visitors is the small Ateljee Bar near the top of the tower. This is a great place from which to get a birdseye view of the city and, if you are lucky, to see an art exhibit since the Ateljee also serves an exclusive gallery with monthly exhibitions. Expect a crowd because this intimate and romantic location has room for only thirty customers indoors and a dozen more on the terrace. (There is also a traditional Irish pub, O'Malley's, on the ground floor if you want to wait for space to become available on the fourteenth floor!).
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Another of the "don't miss" attractions of Helsinki is the historic Hotelli Kämp, perhaps the #1 hostelry in the city. Originally opened in 1887 by Carl Wilhelm Kämp, a successful Helsinki restaurateur, the Kämp opened its doors determined to be recognized as one of Europe's most luxurious hotels. It was outfitted in plush carpets, draperies, and furniture reflected vividly in sparkling Venetian and German chandeliers and spectacular mirrors. Its service was as grand, with guests being transported from the railway station in horse-drawn carriages. The Kämp was soon viewed as a symbol of a nation on the threshold of independence and ready to establish itself as an equal among the countries of Europe. It became an integral part of Finnish history, blending eastern and western Europe with art, politics, and business life. (Factoid: The Kämp played a significant role in historic events when it became the meeting place of a secret and covert movement named "Kagaali" during its opposition Czarist overlords.)
The Kämp is located right on the Esplanade so tourists don't have any trouble finding it . Cruise ship passengers returning to the dock area should consider stopping at the lobby bar or, if the weather permits, the sidewalk terrace, for a "So long, Helsinki" drink and an unrivaled opportunity to feel a bit of Finnish history.
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Temppeliaukio Kirkko ( Church of the Rock)
Another Helsinki church that is worth visiting is the Temppelliaukio Kirkko, located in northwest part the downtown area, well within walking distance of most other major city center sights. Carved out of solid rock, this unique building, an actual "working" church, has become one of the Helsinki’s most popular tourist attractions. Temppelliaukio Kirkko may be among the world's most unique churches--- built partially by blasting a hundred feet down into an enormous granite outcropping, it is all but invisible from the outside.
However, while church's exterior may be unremarkable, its simple circular interior is amazing. The concave dome, looking like it hovering in space, spans seventy feet and features a "layering" of approximately fifteen miles of copper wire. The walls are very rough, having been left almost as they were when the first excavations were completed. Windows run around the whole chamber and the dome includes almost two hundred skylights, making it is fairly easy to see everything that goes on inside the structure. The chamber has great acoustics and the church often puts on both religious and secular concerts. The 3,001-pipe organ is spectacular and is often the main feature of special public performances. (When "live" music is not available, classics by Sibelius and other composers are played over a stereo system.)
The church is surrounded by an
outer wall of quarried stones bound together with steel bindings. This not only
deflects outside noises but also prevents people from walking on the top of
the main boulder (which is easy as the floor of the church is on the street
level). The normal seating capacity is nine hundred.
(Factoid: Underneath the main chamber there is an air-raid
shelter that can accommodate six thousand people!)
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Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium)
The Helsinki Olympic Stadium, located in the Töölö district about a mile from the city center, is the largest stadium in the country. It was built to host the 1940 Summer Olympics after they were were moved from Tokyo to Helsinki. The games, however, were ultimately canceled due to the outbreak of Finland's Winter and Continuation Wars with Russia. (Also the time of World War II for the rest of the world.).
The stadium is best known for being the center of activities in the 1952 Summer Olympics, games that were largely a reflection of the Cold War. For example, the Soviet Union, after having been out of the Olympics since 1912, decided to rejoin the competition. But, instead of joining the other 5,000 athletes from sixty-nine nations coming together in the Olympic Village, the Soviets set up their own facilities for Eastern bloc countries in Otaniemi, an outlying district.
Soviet athletes were chaperoned by Soviet officials everywhere they went in an effort to prevent communication with athletes from the West. The East vs. West aspect dominated the atmosphere. Bob Mathias (United States), winner of the decathlon for the second time, described the atmosphere at the Games, saying, "There were many more pressures on American athletes because of the Russians. . . . They were in a sense the real enemy. You just loved to beat 'em. You just had to beat 'em. . . . This feeling was strong down through the entire team."
In the years following the 1952 Olympics, the stadium has been completely renovated and served as the venue for the World Track and Field Championships in 1983 and in 2005. Seating 40,000 spectators, it is the home stadium of the Finnish national soccer team as is also used for hosting sports events and big concerts.
The tower of the stadium, a distinct landmark with a height of of 200 feet, is open for visitors and offers impressive views over Helsinki. A statue of legendary Finnish athlete Paavo Nurmi outside the Olympic stadium in Helsinki--- a replica of this statue of the national hero can be found in dozens of towns and cities throughout Finland.
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Still looking for things to do, look at Cruise Critics FinnWacky page!
